“HERE now is a new Italian restaurant of the Manhattan old school, built for socialites and those who finance them, staffed by handsome, rakish men with huge wristwatches. It’s the sort of place where in the movie, based on a novel as yet unwritten by Dana Vachon, you might cast Anne Hathaway as the lead and Diane Keaton as her mom. You’re welcome, too. For all this, Casa Lever is a deeply likable restaurant. It’s very New York.”

I kind of feel like S.S. is trying to write the Great American (New Yorker) Novel via his collected columns. Rhapsody in chew. And I sort of love it?